2.5 Million dollar penny

God-DAMN!!

MAkes me wish they'd invent a time machine, so I could go back in time, get a rare coin when they weren't so rare, and then bring it back to the present in pristine condition!

Freak, I'd never have to work again!

What's the going value of a 1909 VDB? They were the big dollar penny last I heard.


Googled it

12-35 bux
http://www.wheresgeorge.com/b:0bz3gp1MVc

Jack002 wrote:What's the going value of a 1909 VDB? They were the big dollar penny last I heard.


Googled it

12-35 bux
http://www.wheresgeorge.com/b:0bz3gp1MVc

Nah, you are thinking of the 1909 SVDB.

1909 S VDB

Maybe so. The grey matter is not getting any better.

Jack002 wrote:Maybe so. The grey matter is not getting any better.

LOL.  No biggie.

I am a numismatist, so I immediately knew which coin you were talking about.

Actually there are others far more valuable than 1909 SVDB, and not just the one mentioned here, but others, too...but the 1909 SVDB is the one every numismatist knows about.

Just in case you or anyone else is interested

And you want to be REAL careful about the 1943 and 1944 pennies...a lot of fakes are out there.  Not hard to fake these either, but if you don't know what you'e doing, it is easy to get rooked on these.  The first way to tell a faked 1943 or 1944 is if they are asking like, a thousand bucks or even less.  In fact, less than 50 thousand would be an immediate red flag for me.

For the 1943's and 1944's I'd be breaking out a magnet.

The 1944's are harder to fake, but not impossible.  Again, a magnet is useful.

Bottom line, if you have a valuable 1943, it should not stick to the magnet.
A valuable 1944 WILL stick to the magnet.

Incidentally, the way a non-informed person gets rooked on these is to be sold a faked "valuable" coin for about $1000 - and the coin recieved was a faked coin, and worth maybe 25 cents.

The magnet and the price should tell you if it's the real deal or not.
But especially the magnet.